A Peplum Perfect for Spring
There may be snow on the ground but that's not keeping my mind from thinking about spring. There's certain fabrics and patterns that lend more to certain times of the year for me. The rib knit I'm sharing today was one of those. The white background with dainty orange, red and pink flowers reminds me of spring in a fabric. Since that's the case, it makes sense to make a seasonally appropriate item, nothing like long sleeves and a turtleneck. Instead I've sewn a peplum with my own cap sleeves!
I love a good peplum and don't wear them near enough. A peplum is a top with short skirt, attached at the natural waist. This shape can be very flattering as the peplum sitting at the natural waist provides an hourglass shape accentuating the smallest part of the body. Now peplums may not be for everyone. If accentuating the hips with more volume isn't what you love, you may reconsider this style. If you are long or short waisted, adjusting the bodice on a peplum can make the world of a difference too.
I've made several different peplum patterns in the last 5 years but am currently loving the Love Notions Margot. This peplum offers 3 different skirt styles: pleated, gathered or swing. It also features a solid or princess seam bodice for additional definition. The pattern includes FBA pattern pieces so you can get the fitted bodice a peplum is known for without having to do an FBA yourself. Plus, it has a projector file! The pattern just went through a size extension and is now available for sizing XS-5X.
The rib knit I chose to use for this Margot is not a recommended fabric type per se but does meet the necessary stretch requirements. Since rib knit has more stretch than required, I basted my bodice together to check fit and ultimately decided sizing down would get my achieved fit preference. So while I measured into a size medium with an upper bust of 35" and full bust of 36.5", I preferred the fit of the small at the bust. The Margot is drafted for 2-3" of negative ease at the bust. I ended up with 3.5" of negative ease but since my fabric has 75% stretch, it doesn't feel like that. If you were using a heavier weight fabric such as Liverpool or Ponte or a fabric that is closer to that 25% stretch requirement, I would not recommend sizing down.
While Margot offers short, 3/4 and long sleeves, I really wanted a cap sleeve for the ultimate spring vibe. I've never modified a pattern for a cap sleeve before so I went to google. From here, know that my technique is usually by trial and error and not the technical way to do things. I filmed a short video of what this process looked like. This video can also be found on my YouTube channel.
What I learned from this trial and error was that I wasn't able to maintain my added hem allowance of 1" since the sleeve wasn't long enough at the bottom of the armsyce. I ended up adjusting the hem to be 1/2" and ultimately love the finished length. Some cap sleeves don't fully go around the armsyce and while that was an option, I don't usually prefer that technique.
I'm really happy with the outcome of these cap sleeves and the fit of my Margot. I already have ideas for my next Margot. If I have plans for another sew quickly after the first, that's a sign that I love the pattern. I love the many skirt styles and am wanting to play around with the princess seam bodice and some contrasting fabrics. My mind is full of ideas!
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