A Tried and True Pattern: Pony Tank

Have you heard of tried and true patterns? They are THE patterns that you know have the ideal fit for you and are able to be adapted for different looks. My first TNT is the Chalk and Notch Pony Tank. 

With the Pony Tank, the fitted bust with A-line shape provides a flattering swing top or dress. I find the v-neck is just the right amount of cleavage and added technique to make this tank feel special. I've sewn this tank as drafted, slimmed the shape, cropped it and added a scoop neckline. I plan to mash sleeves onto it in the future. 

Now, I normally avoid v-necks because they do take a bit longer and some patience. Since I love the shape of the Pony tank so much, I thought I might as well create a scoop neckline for it too. 
To start, project or cut out your pattern piece. I’m using a projector so that’s what you’ll see in the photos below. Check the finished measurements before grading out for the waist or hips. The pattern recommends choosing a size based on your bust. I normally grade 1-2 sizes at the waist but don’t need to with the swing shape. 

Working with your front bodice pattern piece, we’ll create the scoop neck cutline. If you have a french ruler use it to create a gradual scoop. If you don’t have one, no need to worry. You can freehand draw the scoop or find a bowl or cup to use as a guide. You want this to be gradual and about 1” above the v-neck point along the fold on the front. I used a washable fabric pen to draw mine on. If you are worried about this step, I’d recommend drawing your scoop higher. You can always hold it up and cut it down a bit more. I'd recommend using a washable pen such as the Frixon pens or Clover washable pen.

Cut out the front, back and armbands leaving the neckband to cut in a bit. Pin or clip the front and back bodices right sides together at the shoulders and side seams. Stitch with the ⅜” seam allowance included in the pattern. 

Now let’s measure for the new scoop neckband. Each neckband length will be different depending on where you drew your scoop. Quarter your neck opening then measure the opening. I find it easiest to measure the neckline from center front to center back and double that. Since you want the neckband to stretch slightly, I use 85% of this measurement. Lastly, add in the seam allowance doubled (⅜ x 2). The height of the neckband will be 1.5”. 

My neckline was 27.5” x 0.85 + 0.75 = 24.125” x 1.5”

Sew the short ends of the neckband, quarter and attach to your neckline. You should be slightly stretching the neckband only to fit the neckline. Topstitching is optional but I find it helps the bands lay flat. Finish up according to the instructions. 

I’m so happy with how this Pony Tank with scoop neckline turned out! I sewed it up in Mily Mae Fabrics moss pointelle which is a lovely weight for all seasons. The tiny pinhole details in the pointelle fabrics are just gorgeous without being sheer. I envision wearing this with a cardigan and jeans in the fall or shorts and sandals in the summer. 

I’ve also made the Pony Tank in bamboo, rayon spandex and cupro. This neutral cupro unmodified version is one of my most worn items.

If you’d like to adjust the swing amount of your Pony tank, you can use your flat ruler on the side seam to remove some width. I’ve done this when I had a scrap piece to work with and was trying to make it all fit. Keep in mind, you don’t want to grade until under the bust at the armsyce or it’ll be too tight there. You can choose to remove width from the front, back or both. Another way to get fabric to fit on fabric is to add a center back seam. Rather than cutting on the fold like the pattern piece instructs, add a ⅜” seam allowance and cut two mirror pieces ⅜” wider than the fold line. Put the right sides together and stitch before sewing the shoulder seams. 

I'm really into crop length tanks right now too. To create a crop, I simply removed 3.5" from the hem keeping the curved hem. I prefer lighter knits with nice drape for crops so that it flows from the waist. For this cropped Pony Tank I used the Bamboo Tie Dye Rib Knit in this unique coral tie dye design. 

Have you tried the Pony Tank or have a hack you'd like me to make with it? Just let me know! This is the tank I recommend to everyone so give it a try! I'm hoping to make the dress version soon. Also, be on the lookout for an update to the Pony Tank with extended sizing soon. 

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