Sinclair Betty + Cachet Mashup

I love a good pattern hack and find it so rewarding to recreate an inspiration piece. I've been seeing this inspiration on Pinterest for over a year. I've tried to decide how I wanted to make it happen and finally decided to just go for it. How'd I do?

Photo from: Fray Apparel 

For this mash/hack I will be using the Sinclair Betty Dress and the Sinclair Cachet patterns. I opted to not add sleeve cuffs like the inspiration. 

Here's all the changes I made:

• Lengthened the Betty skirt by 6 inches
• Changed the curve of the skirt bottom piece
• Lowered the Cachet neckline by 1.75"
• Cut the Cachet 4" below the color block line
• Slimmed the Cachet at the waist to fit the skirt
• Hemmed the Cachet sleeves prior to finishing side seams
• Added a waist tie

Does this seem like too many steps for you? It really isn't and comes together quickly. If you want though, just pick and choose what you'd like to do. You can mash the Cachet bodice and Betty skirt without altering the skirt length to save time. To do this, skip the "Betty Skirt" section below and use your 3 Betty pattern pieces to assemble the skirt like in the Betty instructions. 

If you'd prefer to just lengthen the skirt, go for it and skip the "Cachet Bodice" section. That's what's wonderful about sewing your own garments, you can do what you'd like!

Betty Skirt

To get started, I made my pattern alterations to the Betty skirt. For this mashup, you will need the skirt top, skirt bottom and skirt back pieces. I traced each onto tracing paper next. Starting with the skirt back piece, I marked 6" longer than the bottom of it. 

For this pattern piece it's pretty straight so I essentially drew a line 6" longer than the previous one. Then I continued the side seam and fold lines down. 

To add length: mark 6" below the lowest point

For the skirt side pieces, I marked 6" down from the straight side seam then continued the curve up until it reached the other side. For the skirt bottom piece I added a bit more width to the curve I was drawing to make it a bit less revealing. I don't think this was necessary with the longer length and wouldn't change the curve in the future.

The widened skirt bottom compared to the original pattern piece (below the tracing paper)

Assemble the skirt as directed starting with the skirt pleats. The only change you've made to the Betty skirt is the length which doesn't change the directions at all. When you have basted the skirt together, move on to the Cachet bodice portion. 

Cachet Bodice

Now it's time to make adjustments to the Cachet pattern. I marked 4" lower than the color blocking line and drew a new cut line. This needs to be done for both the front and back pieces. I found the 4" by simply holding the pattern piece up to my body and estimating where I needed to cut for the waistline. I wanted a little bit of extra length so there was some draping at the waist. It worked out perfectly. 

Mark 4" below the color block cut line on the front and back bodice pieces (drawn in yellow)

My preference in general is a lower neckline since I'm smaller chested. To drop the neckline, I pulled my pattern piece down 1.75" on the front fold and made a mark. Then I used another pattern to draw a new neckline. 

Tip: use a neckline from a pattern you know you like for lowering the neckline (shown in yellow)

You'll need to measure for a new neckband as the previous one will be too small. For this, once the shoulder seams are sewn you can measure the neck opening. Take that measurement x 0.85 then add 0.25" for seam allowance. In my case, the neckline measured 27".

27" x 0.85 = 23" + 0.25" = 23.25" by 1.75" height

TIP: I write my new neckline measurements on my pattern piece so I have them for next time without having to recalculate. 

Write your neckline measurement on your pattern piece for next time. 

You will also need to slim in your waist of the Cachet to fit your Betty skirt. The easiest way to figure out how much is to assemble your Betty skirt first and then based on that measurement, cut down your cachet waist. The reason you can't just measure the Betty pattern pieces is because of the front pleats. The front pleat pattern piece is wider than it will end up so wouldn't give you a true measurement. 

Take your completed Betty skirt and measure the front and back of it. Take each measurement and divide by two then add the 0.25" seam allowance. Mark this width on your pattern piece from the center fold. This is your new cut width. Draw a line up from your mark toward the armsyce. Once your front and back bodice pieces have been adjusted, cut out your fabric.

My measured distance was 7.75" so I marked at 8" with the SA and drew a line up to the armsyce

For construction of the Cachet, I change it a bit just based on my preference for dolmans. First, sew the shoulder seams. Now I hem the sleeves by pressing the 5/8" hem allowance then stitching with my Juki coverstitch. (Alternatively, you can use a double needle or follow other hemming techniques.)

Press sleeve 5/8" hem allowance to wrong side

Completed sleeve hem 

After the sleeve is hemmed, I put front and back bodice pieces right sides together and sew up the side seams. You will have a serger tail, which I thread back through the serge with an embroidery needle. I find it's easiest to get everything lined up if I serge from the waist up to the sleeve hem rather than the other direction. 

Attach your neckband by quartering the neckband and the neckline then attaching it evenly. If you prefer to, top stitch the neckband down at this time. 

Attaching Together

Now that you have a skirt and a bodice, it's time to put it all together! Take your skirt and turn it wrong side out. Make sure your bodice is right side out. Use pins or clips to mark the center front and back of both the skirt and the bodice. Slide the bodice inside the skirt so right sides are facing and the marks line up. IMPORTANT: Make sure your front bodice is aligned to your front skirt opening. 

This next step may seem optional but is critical in this look and technique. Measure your waist and cut a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" elastic your waist measurement minus 2 inches. Overlap the elastic and attach it together with a zig zag stitch. Quarter the elastic. Slide the elastic on top of the wrong side of the skirt matching the quarters with the already marked points on the skirt/bodice. The elastic will be smaller than the clipped together bodice/skirt. 

Work in progress: without the waist elastic

Completed: with the waist elastic. Notice the height of skirt and definition

Stitch all together, stretching the elastic to fit evenly. The elastic is what pulls the dress into the waistline and keeps it from falling down. Without the elastic it looks undefined and the skirt will be pulled down below the natural waist. 

Optional Waist Tie

I decided to make a waist tie as well which is completely optional. I cut the tie 3" x 55". With right sides together, sew along one short and the long side leaving one short side open. Turn the tie right side out. I use a bodkin for this process but any turning tool will work. Stitch the open end closed. 

I wanted the tie to be removable but if you want it permanent, stitch it to either side seam with coordinating thread. 

Fabric

Isn't this fabric stunning?! It's a DBP from Mily Mae Fabrics from last year that sold out extremely quickly. This one was actually a scrap piece I found and intended for my niece. Oops. I love the floral and polka dot combination though! There is a woven mint version still available but keep in mind, these patterns are intended for knits only. The mint version would need to be used for something else, like Daisy or Lily. 

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