Sinclair Lauren Top and Dress
Pattern designer: Sinclair Patterns
Pattern level: 5/10
Time start to finish: 2 hours
Suggested fabrics: rayon spandex, DBP, modal, light sweater knit
My fabrics: rayon spandex
Price: Introductory sale price of $8.99
I’ve been sewing apparel for almost 3 years now. In those years, I’ve collected quite a few pdf patterns. This year I’ve decided to focus on adding to my collection patterns that are unique and stand out amongst what I already own. The newest pattern from Sinclair Patterns is just that. The Lauren features an asymmetrical neckline and pleats that create a draped front. There is also a low waist dress option.
I was able to test this pattern so have firsthand seen how drafting a unique design can be extremely involved. The two versions of the Lauren that I made are version one of the test. There have been some minor updates since these were made. I'll go into more detail about that below.
To get the draped look that the Lauren boasts, you need to create pleats on both the side and shoulder seam. This is the most challenging part of pattern especially when working with rayon spandex or ITY. The pattern has markings of where the pleats need to go but I found some easy tricks too.
|This pattern piece shows 2 sizes printed for grading. The size I'm using for the pleats is the punched size.|
I used a hole punch to punch out on the paper pattern where I needed to mark for each dart. Then I was able to use my washable marking pen to transfer the markings to the fabric. Make sure you are marking the right side of the fabric.
For the pleats, go slow and pin often. They should form a straight line and leave a straight edge on your fabric. I then found it easier to use a longer (4 length) straight stitch to baste them. The pattern recommends to use a stretch stitch but this seam gets secured later in construction too. I also found that my machine seemed to eat the pleats when I was using the suggested 1/8" seam allowance. To avoid this, I stayed just under a 1/4" seam allowance. After the sides were serged later in construction, I removed these basting stitches.
|Lauren Tank + Sunset Lounge Pants|
I made both of these tops in solid fabrics to use as layering pieces. As a benefit, I found this blue tank option matched my Sunset Loungers perfectly. I've also paired them with jeans for an easy "mom on the go" look.
For the blue tank, I used a heavier weight rayon spandex from my stash. The armhole is finished with a binding to the inside. I chose to add a waistband to this one too. This was my first version during testing where I sized down due to the looser fabric. I made a size 4 bust graded to a 6 waist and hips. While the front fit beautifully, the back pulled and felt too tight. The final version of the pattern has more ease in the back to eliminate this.
My pink version was also made from a rayon spandex fabric. This one is from Mily Mae Fabrics and unfortunately no longer available. There are some other colorways of the same fabric, Dusty Pink and Dusty Indigo though. For this top, I went with my measured size of a 6 bust and 8 waist/hips. I chose to finish it with a hem this time. I don't feel the size is too large but it is looser than my blue version.
Overall, I love this design. I enjoy the drape the pleats provide and it's ability to be dressed up or down easily. The double layer front makes this a comfortable design that extremely flattering on my body shape. I'm excited to make more of these now that I have the pleats figured out. The Lauren is on sale for $8.99 through January 20th.
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